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About Acne
What is acne?
Acne is a treatable disease that results in inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions. A medical definition of acne is "a genetic disease evolving from retention hyperkeratosis of the follicular epithelium."
Pathogenesis of acne:
The natural process of the epidermal cells (stratum corneum) is constantly shedding and being replaced by new cells. When this natural process slows down a gradual build-up forms and retention hyperkeratosis occurs. Skin cells stick to the surface and begin lining the inside walls of the follicle.
Acne is related to the over production of sebaceous gland lipids. The severity of acne correlates with the amount of sebum that has been excreted and then obstructed.
Sebum is composed of squalene, wax esters, and tryglycerides. When cells build up inside the follicle wall a small impactation is formed that is called a micro comedone.
Micro comodones are actually a mixture of dead skin cells, bacteria, fatty acids from excess sebum, and other cellular debris.
What causes acne?
Medically, the cause of acne is unknown. Some theorize that there is a root cause that may stem from hormonal imbalance, psychological aspects, nutrient deficiencies, and genetics. For genetically prone sufferers this means a lifetime regimen of daily home care.
Factors affecting acne:
Stress is the number one factor affecting acne. Stress stimulates the adrenal glands and for woman this can be a problem because they produce much of the male hormones in the adrenal glands. Men produce only a small amount of testosterone in the adrenal glands. Since men also produce naturally higher levels of testosterone, surges of it from stress have less of an affect on acne. Usually flare-ups occur about 14 days following a stress response.
Stress induced acne cause an interruption of healing in the follicle. When the healing process is disturbed from stress (it weakens the body), white blood cells attack troubled areas and inflammation begins.
Nutrition- Avoid foods with iodides — salts, processed foods, fast foods, excessive dairy, soy sauce, MSG, alcohol, caffeine, and some drugs are a trigger to existing acne conditions. Drink 6-8 glasses of water a day.
Hormones— Hormones effect acne and specifically testosterone stimulates the development of sebaceous follicles and attack oil glands. This factor during adolescence when hormones are very active. The fluctuation of hormones during menses accounts for acne flare-ups. It is the increase of progesterone that aggravates acne conditions in genetic vulnerable women. Increase estrogen generally relieves acne, which is why physicians will prescribe birth control pills.
Picking & Touching— Improper squeezing will rupture the follicle wall and cause bacteria to spread. Touching irritates skin and breads bacteria from fingers and hands.
Drying— Overuse of very drying skin care products will cause the sebaceous glands to produce more oil. Which will cause more acne to flare up.
Excessive & Abrasive scrubbing and over cleaning will over production of sebum in the follicle and worsens acne conditions. The formation of acne begins will sebum.
Cosmetics and Over the counter products contain fragrances, dyes and preservatives that are irritating to sensitive and acne prone skins and should be avoided.
Skin Irritants— soap powders (all natural fragrances free is best), fabric softeners, shampoos, conditioners, hairsprays, etc. are all irritants to existing acne conditions. Make sure your laundry is rinsed thoroughly, replace pillowcases daily, and never use same washcloth more then once.
What will help my acne?
Depending on what grade acne you are suffering from, there are treatments that will help control acne breakouts. Proper exfoliating will help keep the pores cleaner and rid of bacteria. A partnership between you and your aesthetician will be required during your treatments. Proper homecare during treatments will help achieve the results you want for clear, healthy, beautiful skin.
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